The Rolex Explorer II, a watch synonymous with exploration and adventure, boasts a rich history. While the latest iteration, the 226570, released in 2021, captivates with its modern refinements, the 1980s models hold a special place in the hearts of collectors and enthusiasts. This era marks a significant chapter in the Explorer II's evolution, representing a transition from its earlier, more utilitarian design to the more refined aesthetics we see today. This article delves into the allure of the Rolex Explorer II watches produced during the 1980s, exploring their unique characteristics, appreciating their current value, and comparing them to later models.
The 16550: A Defining Decade for the Explorer II
The dominant model of the 1980s was the reference 16550. This watch significantly departed from its predecessor, the reference 1655, which featured an orange 24-hour hand. The 16550 retained the crucial GMT functionality, crucial for navigating different time zones, but opted for a more subtle, less visually striking approach. The 24-hour hand transitioned to a sleek, black arrow-tipped design, integrating seamlessly into the overall dial aesthetics. This subtle change, combined with other refinements, contributed to the watch's enduring appeal.
The 16550 was available in various dial configurations, with black dials being the most common. While less frequently encountered, some examples feature a rare and highly sought-after white dial. These subtle variations contribute to the rich tapestry of collectible Explorer II watches from this period. The case size remained consistent at 40mm, a size that has proven timeless and remains popular today. The case itself, crafted from robust stainless steel, ensured durability, making it ideally suited for the rugged conditions often faced by explorers and adventurers. The movement within, a calibre 3085, was a reliable workhorse, ensuring accurate timekeeping even under demanding circumstances.
A Comparison to the Modern 226570
Comparing the 1980s 16550 to the current 226570 highlights the evolution of the Explorer II. While both share the core DNA of a robust, functional tool watch, there are noticeable differences. The 226570 benefits from modern manufacturing techniques, resulting in improved precision and enhanced water resistance. The updated movement, calibre 3285, offers increased power reserve and superior chronometric performance. The dial and hands have been redesigned for enhanced legibility, with bolder markers and improved luminescence. The case, while still 40mm, has subtle design differences, reflecting contemporary aesthetics.
However, the 16550 possesses a certain charm and character that the 226570 lacks. Its slightly more vintage aesthetic, the subtle nuances of its dial and hands, and the history it embodies make it a highly desirable piece for collectors. This speaks to the enduring appeal of vintage timepieces and their inherent connection to a specific era.
Understanding the Rolex Explorer II Value Chart
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